THE ZEN OF FISH: The Story of Sushi, from Samurai to Supermarket
Trevor Corson
HarperCollins
Popular Culture/Food
ISBN-10: 0060883502
ISBN-13: 9780060883508

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Subtitled "The Story of Sushi, from Samurai to Supermarket," Trevor Corson's latest marine exploration (THE SECRET LIFE OF LOBSTERS was the forerunner) is a heaping platter of fishy facts, sometimes more than an ordinary human being can stand. Eels are slimy because they secrete and live in their own mucous; salmon turn red and green because they're slowly starving as they head upstream for the once and final orgy that ends in death; squid will enthusiastically eat other squid while all of them are being hacked to pieces and devoured by sharks.

We learn all these compelling details as we follow Kate on her quest for competence as a sushi chef. Kate --- too thin, addicted to Red Bull, battling low self-esteem --- has signed up for a 12-week course overseen by Toshi Sugiura, CEO of the California Sushi Academy. The class, surprisingly taught by an Australian named Zoran, is open to anyone, even those who, like Kate, have no background in the world of sushi. She will be one of only a few women who succeed in becoming sushi chefs in a profession dominated by men. In the beginning, she is nervous and easily discouraged.

Zoran, a "sushi prodigy" handpicked by Toshi, gives out few kudos and lots of tests. Like a Zen master he yells and sometimes belittles, but he quickly gains and keeps the respect of all his disciples. Kate is afraid of the samurai-sharp sushi knives and daunted by the lightning-fast timing required to produce tiny culinary masterpieces while making clever chit-chat with the customers. She compiles her private list of the most disgusting sushi ingredients, including octopus tentacles, fish eyeballs and just about everything to do with squid.

As he reveals how Zoran teaches and what Kate learns, Corson whisks us from ancient Japan, where sushi has its roots, to the trendy hot spots of sushi adoration like Los Angeles, where Americans are remaking the ancient culture of sushi to suit westernized requirements. One of the more important things to remember about sushi, according to Corson, is that originally it had nothing to do with eating raw fish. In fact, its central purpose was to preserve old fish with the application of salty pungent sauces. Serendipitously, it became a fast food fave among the aristocratic Japanese. Its popularity in Japan has never waned, even when health-conscious American army personnel banned outdoor food stalls after World War II, forcing sushi to go indoors and setting the template for stateside sushi bars.

Corson leads us through sushi the way Zoran structures his classes, fish by fish. By the time Kate graduates, we know as much as she does but don't have to sharpen a knife or entertain a customer.

An appendix lays out sushi bar protocol so you won't feel like an idiot the first time you're confronted with the myriad of rolls (ura-maki, kappa-maki, hoso-maki, futo-maki), or try to tell the difference between toro, chutoro and otoro (varying levels of fatty tuna meat). The best strategy is to learn to pronounce the essential phrase "omakase." It means, "Do it your way," inviting the chef to entertain the customer with his --- or her --- creations, which should include a marvelous mysterious blend of flavor, color and texture. Don't let price stop you from saying "omakase." Go for the magic. And note: "Customers who show off their sushi knowledge at the sushi bar are tiresome. Chefs appreciate customers who would rather eat sushi than talk about it."

   --- Reviewed by Barbara Bamberger Scott

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