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"A situation of urban comfort" is one of the definitions Merriam-Webster gives for the word "civilization." A sure sign of civilization is the presence of a tavern, saloon or pub --- a bar. Certainly, what goes on inside these establishments will occasionally resemble something from humankind's knuckle dragging past. But the existence and popularity of commercial establishments dedicated to the ritualistic preparation and distribution of alcoholic beverages is a reassuring indication that as members of the human race we share a common desire for "a situation of urban comfort." On the rocks, up, twist, no twist, or even just tonic without the vodka, thank you, the bar is both evidence of and an escape from whatever passes these days for civilization.
That the tavern plays a vital role in the human experience can be argued over cocktails. But Toby Cecchini, author of COSMOPOLITAN: A Bartender's Life, understands the bar as a common and familiar stage on which the human experience plays out. His delightfully entertaining and insightful memoir offers plentiful evidence of his appreciation for the complex juxtaposition of tradition, ritual, fantasy, reality, irony and expectation that are the DNA of any drinking establishment.
Cecchini takes very seriously the role and responsibilities of the bartender: the craft, skill and knowledge that come into play behind the bar, and the subtle (and sometimes not so subtle) manipulations necessary to exert some semblance of control over what goes on in front of it. But he also has the sharp wit, keen eye and sense of fun to see the entertainment value in a job that requires his professionalism to remain intact while his customers gleefully rid themselves of that particular burden.
He clearly loves the job. This affection, coupled with a writing style that combines hip downtown street wisdom with uptown eloquence and sophistication, makes COSMOPOLITAN: A Bartender's Life as welcome and inviting a slice of urban comfort as the crackle of ice in a tumbler of good scotch.
--- Reviewed by Bob Rhubart
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