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Susan Herrmann Loomis's newest book, ON RUE TATIN, brings the wonder of a child and
the fresh eyes of a tourist to the French village of Louviers. The author and her family
live in a self-renovated medieval convent, and as with other genre-mates like UNDER THE
TUSCAN SUN, ON RUE TATIN is a billet-doux to simple living in a European town. This
fascinating volume, filled with the quirkiness that only small town folks going about
their daily rituals can exemplify, is a delight.
The charity and generosity of the townspeople is highlighted by Loomis's conversational
style. It's as if you are sitting in the kitchen of her ancient home cum cooking school
enjoying coffee as she recounts her history. The inevitable cultural missteps, too,
illuminate the differences and similarities of us all. The florists across the street
can't understand why Loomis balks at them for using her garden as a storage area and only
baked goods can save the day. A battle with the parish priest over his use of the Loomis's
adjacent garden as his private parkway can't be solved with baked goods, though --- only
by stick-to-itiveness and the will to outlast the priest's tenure. By the end of Loomis's
recounting of her search for the perfect stove, you'll be as ready to throw up your hands
and cook over an open fire as were Loomis and her husband!
Subtitled Living and Cooking in a French Town, the memoir reveals the ageless tasks of
food preparation, which have changed little in France over the years. Over 50 sumptuous
recipes are included in the pages, ranging from braised chicken with white wine and
mustard to yogurt cake. Most of the simple recipes are from Loomis's neighbors and friends
in France. The focus on seasonal ingredients and typical area seasonings has made a few
dishes favorites in my house already. Unfortunately, because there is no index and the
recipes are sprinkled into the chapters, the reader must search for each one, a sometimes
frustrating task. A few ingredients need explanation, and the search for other ingredients
will require either a fantastically well-stocked grocery store or use of the Internet to
find.
The American oddity of corn on the cob and the debate over fresh vs. shelf-stable milk
each brings home the universal cultural quirks that make traveling the pleasure it is. But
not all things French are beloved in this memoir. Loomis's experience with French dental
care leads her to find an American doctor, and her family's preference for fresh milk
results in an arrangement with her local grocer to hold gallons of milk for them from the
once weekly delivery. After all, because milk is only delivered once a week, you'll go
without if you don't get there early!
Loomis's love affair with France began after entering a Parisian cooking school and then
becoming Patricia Wells's assistant. Wells, a noted food writer living in Paris,
recognized Loomis's writing abilities and showed her how the love for cooking and writing
could be combined into a successful career. Loomis, author of six cookbooks including
FARMHOUSE COOKBOOK and THE GREAT AMERICAN SEAFOOD COOKBOOK, writes, lectures and conducts
cooking classes from her home at 1, Rue Tatin. Fans of UNDER THE TUSCAN SUN and A YEAR IN
PROVENCE will enjoy the latest take on small town European life. Susan Loomis's anecdotes,
sense of place, and recipes are worth the $24.00 hardcover price.
--- Reviewed by Kelly Koepke
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