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I've been teased on many occasions that I read cookbooks like they are novels. Well, they often are when they include such information as the history and customs of a land and its people along with the origins of certain dishes and the rituals that make meals an intricate part of life. Pick up any number of the following cookbooks and you will be treated to not only some deliciously tantalizing recipes but some good stories as well.
CRACKING THE COCONUT: Classic Thai Home Cooking
Su-Mei Yu
William Morrow
ISBN: 0688165427
Keang masman / sweet heart made
Cumin scent / fanned mad desire
Singular bite / tainted his dream
Ache passionate stir / for maiden's fern
--- Translated from a poem by King Rama II, "King Buddha Loes La," between 1768 and 1824. CRACKING THE COCONUT, page 201.
CRACKING THE COCONUT is really a book about the history, people, and customs that have shaped Thailand over the centuries. The Thai love of cooking reveals a relationship and a continuity between food and the life of an individual, their family, and society, where cultural, artistic, religious and social influences all come into play. It is also a book that seeks to dispel the notion that Thai food is full of mysterious ingredients and thus difficult to prepare at home.
Beginning with the basics of Thai cooking, author Su-Mei Yu takes readers through a list of equipment (a mortar and pestle are indispensable), ways of cooking, and a list of traditional ingredients. The ensuing chapters --- entitled Rice "the soul of Thai cooking"; Coconut "the spirit of Thai cooking"; The Big Four Seasonings "the essence of Thai cooking"; The Thai Philosophy of Food; Chile Water "the crown jewel"; Thai Curry "the signature dish"; Thai Salads; and Noodles "a Thai blessing" --- are filled with tips on selection, storage, and cooking along with recipes, variations, and cook's notes. And for cooks who do not have the luxury of living somewhere where Asian foods are readily available, the author has included adaptations for hard to find and seasonal ingredients.
I haven't yet come to a decision as to whether Su-Mei Yu succeeds in her goal of "Thai food made easy." Not because the directions are less than perfect, but because there are so many unfamiliar names and ingredients that it is a real learning process. However, her conversational tone and the history and personal anecdotes throughout the book make for a fascinating read and a desire to dive right in. The Thai philosophy of food includes two words --- arroy "delicious" and sanuk "fun" --- which should be a part of everyone's daily life. It's time to move beyond padd Thai and on to ngon rood, miang khum, and whatever else strikes your fancy.
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ENOTECA: Simple, Delicious Recipes in the Italian Wine Bar Tradition
Joyce Goldstein
Chronicle Books
ISBN: 0811828255
This lovely new book by one of the foremost experts on Mediterranean cooking treats us to the pleasures of the Italian wine bar, or enoteca. Joyce Goldstein leads readers through a wonderfully informative history of these popular Italian eateries, which date back to the 1400s and are now cropping up in urban centers throughout Europe and the United States.
The main purpose of the enoteca is to highlight a selection of wines through a few simple foods that can be served at the bar or small tables. Although many enoteche have now expanded their menus, the emphasis remains on ease of preparation. Items can range from herbed cheese spreads served with good crusty bread to risotto pancakes dressed with a tangy tomato sauce to tender slices of Tuscan roast pork loin. Each recipe is accompanied by a matching pointer by Master Sommelier Evan Goldstein, the author's son. Of pasta packets with shrimp and sweet red peppers he says, "The shrimp and red bell peppers mandate a wine of substance and ripe fruit. While a juicy red wine is fine, whites and rosés may be preferable." These notes are then followed with a wine suggestion, such as an Italian grignolino or a California "vin gris" of pinot noir, which is helpful to both the wine connoisseur and those of us who are less savvy.
The table of contents is divided nicely into types of foods, which include vegetables and sweets along with the more substantial fare, and there are good listings of cheeses and cured meats in their respective chapters. Although some of the recipes are indeed quite labor intensive, there are many things that can be easily put together at home. The lush photographs and inviting recipes will make you want to open your home as an enoteca to enjoy new wines and simple, delicious foods with old friends.
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THE GLORIOUS FOODS OF GREECE: Traditional Recipes from the Islands, Cities, and Villages
Diane Kochilas
William Morrow
ISBN: 0688154573
At close to 500 pages, THE GLORIOUS FOODS OF GREECE takes readers well beyond postcard images and into the history and culinary lineage of a country that has been marked not only by its landscape but by the many cultures that have left an imprint on this crossroads between east and west.
Grains, grapes, and olives are the cornerstones of Greek food and they are the foundation of most dishes. From the simple and sparse food of the mountains and islands to the more complex cuisine of the cities, Diane Kochilas takes us on a tour of this varied country, beginning with The Peloponnese and ending with Athens, with many stops in between.
Food inhabits a deep place in the Greek psyche. Every milestone is celebrated with a specific dish. And it is with this idea in mind that readers are presented with ritualistic food, but also good, accessible food --- food that is completely tied to a place. Most of the "classic" recipes have been omitted, but the basics of Greek cooking are included, and each chapter details the specific cuisine of an area and presents its specialties.
This enormous volume may be a bit overwhelming, but it is a fascinating read. So, immerse yourself in the culture and let these recipes enter your imagination. Although fanouropita is customarily made at the end of summer, perhaps the New Year is as good a time as any to make this walnut filled cake in honor of the patron saint of lost or unrevealed fortunes.
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MADHUR JAFFREY'S STEP-BY-STEP COOKING: Over 150 Dishes from India and the Far East, Including Thailand, Vietnam, Indonesia, and Malaysia
Madhur Jaffrey
HarperCollins
ISBN: 0066214025
My new favorite cookbook also includes China, Japan, Korea, Hong Kong, and the Philippines. Anyone who has seen Madhur Jaffrey on PBS is well aware of her calm and deliberate demeanor as she shares her love of cooking. Those qualities are apparent here as well, as she introduces us to these various cuisines, their similarities, and what makes each country distinct.
The contents are nicely divided into sections that explain equipment and cooking techniques, followed by chapters on soups and first courses; fish and seafood; poultry and eggs; meat; vegetables and salads; rice, pancakes and noodles; dips, sauces, pickles and garnishes; and desserts and drinks. Basic stocks, special ingredients, and specialist suppliers are also included and easy to reference. Throughout these chapters, there are wonderful tidbits of history and etiquette that make for some fun reading.
This oversize book is full of beautiful photographs of preparation as well as finished dishes. One of these photographs tempted me into making the deliciously simple cabbage stir-fried with red pepper paste. But then, delicious could define everything I have cooked from this book. Finally, one of the nicest elements of the book is the simple and elaborate menu suggestions for each country. An elaborate Vietnamese meal revolving around aromatic and spicy beef stew might be just the thing to delight friends and family on a winter's evening.
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THE OCCIDENTAL TOURIST: More Than 130 Asian-Inspired Recipes
Stan Frankenthaler and Sally Sampson
Simon & Schuster
ISBN: 0684873079
I must admit that I was initially skeptical of a book of recipes that are described as "fusion" cuisine. But this beautifully designed and photographed cookbook quickly drew me in, and I found myself intrigued by Stan Frankenthaler's idea of fusion as a merging of elements, which really describes most "traditional" American food.
Beginning with a list of essential ingredients and equipment, Frankenthaler and Sampson then take us through every stage of a meal from starters to desserts. By adding a few ingredients like coconut milk, Asian noodles, and lime leaves to the peanut butter and black peppercorns already in your pantry, you are well on your way to achieving the balance, harmony, and contrast that are the hallmarks of Asian cooking.
From the unassuming black tea-brined chicken to the more elaborate rich and poor man's lobster to the chocolate layer cake, the addition of a simple flavor twist to familiar dishes is what makes these recipes so interesting. And each recipe includes suggestions for accompanying dishes and variations on a theme, which is of great help in making a complete meal. Yang Chow fried rice is next on my list.
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THE PARIS COOKBOOK
Patricia Wells
HarperCollins
ISBN: 0060184698
THE PARIS COOKBOOK is filled with beautiful photographs of store fronts, people, markets, and restaurants, making me want to be there right now partaking of this culinary wonderland. For now, sitting on the couch in front of a roaring fire, reading and daydreaming will have to do.
Hors d'oeuvres whet our appetites for all the delicacies to follow, from main courses to dessert. Some of the recipes come from Patricia Wells's observations and experience, but most are the offerings of chefs and home cooks who have been kind enough to share their knowledge and secrets. Each page is well-designed, with easy to follow instructions, lists of ingredients and any special equipment, and a wine selection. Personal anecdotes and "what I learned" tell each story, but perhaps the best part of each recipe is the address for where the dish originated or the best place to buy the freshest mussels or the most succulent cherries.
I trust Patricia Wells to give us the best of Parisian cooking. My daydreams have taken me to a farmer's market on the avenue de Saxe for a lunchtime dessert of the apple lady's apple cake, followed by a trip to the museum, after which it is time for champagne and Joël Robuchon's famous parmesan chips at Restaurant de l'Astor and then dinner at the famous Montparnasse brasserie Le Dome for soul meunière and a glass of white Burgundy. Until my daydreams come true I will have to enjoy Le Mauzac's hanger steak with a nice syrah right here at home.
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PLEASURES OF THE VIETNAMESE TABLE: Recipes and Reminiscences from Vietnam's Best Market Kitchens, Street Cafés, and Home Cooks
Mai Pham
HarperCollins
ISBN: 0060192585
Many years ago I bought a Vietnamese cookbook because I thought the food photographs were incredibly beautiful. Unfortunately, I felt so overwhelmed by the ingredients that I never once ventured to make a single recipe from that book. Mai Pham has rekindled my interest in cooking Vietnamese food in my decidedly American kitchen with her very accessible PLEASURES OF THE VIETNAMESE TABLE.
Through her recollections of her visits to Vietnam, Pham takes us on a journey to the many market kitchens and street cafes where most Vietnamese take their meals each day. Each vendor sells their one particular item that they have perfected over the years, and people go from place to place nibbling on small plates of their favorite foods. We are also treated to many of the home-style meals that are common throughout the country, all of which make it seem possible to recreate these recipes in our own homes.
This book also is full of beautiful photographs, but of a different sort. Instead of lush color photographs of food in pristine settings, these black and white photographs show the experience of coming into contact with the people, the markets, the landscape, and the foods of Vietnam. Whether you want to learn about Tet or how to make the best pho, let Mai Pham be your guide.
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RICK BAYLESS'S MEXICAN KITCHEN: Capturing the Vibrant Flavors of a World-Class Cuisine
Rick Bayless with Deann Groen Bayless and JeanMarie Brownson
Scribner
ISBN: 0684800063
Having lived my entire life in south Texas and Southern California, and having spent a great deal of time in Mexico, I like to think I know of what I speak when it comes to Mexican food. The foods of Mexico are regionally distinct, but there are some essential flavors of the Mexican kitchen that reveal the complex and baroque character of this country and its food. From the simplest quesadilla to the most sophisticated mole, Mexican food goes far beyond our imaginations. It's not fast food and it's not the nachos at the ballpark, but what you might find at some little jewel in San Antonio or East L. A. or Mexico City --- or Chicago, where Rick Bayless and his wife Deann Groen Bayless own and operate two Mexican restaurants, Frontera Grill and Topolobampo.
It is obvious that the Baylesses have a great love and respect for Mexico. It comes through in their knowledge of the food and the excitement with which they want to share. Within the pages of this beautifully illustrated book, there are tips for obtaining authentic flavor in traditional recipes and ideas for variations within the American home kitchen. Through Rick Bayless's masterful instruction, you too can learn to make classic cochinito pibil, chipotle shrimp, or the tastiest enchiladas.
Each December, when friends from Mexico come to visit for the new year, they ooh and ahh endlessly over my tamales, salsa, and guacamole. I have Rick Bayless to thank for that.
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VERDURE: Simple Recipes in the Italian Style
Gioietta Vitale with Robin Vitetta-Miller
Potter
ISBN: 060960435X
Every Sunday morning I go to a large, bustling farmer's market in Los Angeles and, although we can get anything at any time of the year in this fair city, I still like to shop for what's in season --- eggplant in summer, wild mushrooms in autumn. And I invariably come home with too much of something and think, what am I going to do with all these beets? Or, these turnips looked so lovely, but now what?
This small book provides the perfect answer. The authors skillfully guide readers through the history, the "family," and the natural time of year for each verdure, followed by approximately five recipes and meal accompaniments for each. A wonderful source of inspiration that begins with artichokes and ends with zucchini, this is cooking at its simplest, freshest and best.
--- Reviewed by Anita Bunn
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