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Along with the food, some of the most important ingredients that keep customers returning to restaurants are the atmosphere and the people. Do they know you? Do they know what you like to eat? These are the comforts that make us feel welcome. Even if you like to experiment and try different restaurants, there are always those few places that you return to time and time again. Now you can create or recreate a memorable meal at home with family and friends with the many recipes that are shared in the following selection of books.
THE CAFÉ PONGO COOKBOOK: More Than 220 Recipes from the Hudson Valley
Valerie Nehez
Simon & Schuster
ISBN: 0684871378
In the mid-1980s Valerie Nehez dropped out of college and started a small café in the run-down Hudson River Valley town of Tivoli. Since that time, Ms. Nehez has gone on to open her second restaurant --- Café Pongo, named for her dog --- in the now bustling town of Tivoli.
The author's experience with living and traveling in other countries is evident in her cooking style. There are many interesting flavors to be found in the simplest to the most complex of recipes. And if I do have one quibble, it may be that there are some superfluous ingredients in many of the dishes. However, she has a wonderful energy and sense of humor that shine through, and I like that she says, "I often decide what to make for dinner by first picking my sides." In other words, choose what looks beautiful at the market and go from there.
From sweet and savory breakfasts to soups, salads, sandwiches, appetizers, entrées, sides, and desserts, there is something for everyone. Throughout the book, there are notes on serving suggestions and cooking techniques, with certain tips repeated whenever necessary --- a very nice touch.
What began as a breakfast spot quickly grew into a full-scale restaurant and catering service that is known for sophisticated cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere. Café Pongo is a favorite of both locals and weekenders, and judging by the black and white photographs and the recipes that fill the pages of this book, it's not hard to see why.
THE GOOD ENOUGH TO EAT BREAKFAST COOKBOOK
Carrie Levin with William Perley
Warner Books
ISBN: 0446528269
"A simple list of ingredients and a pretty picture aren't enough." So says Carrie Levin of New York City's famous Upper West Side restaurant Good Enough to Eat. And with over 20 years of restaurant experience, I'd say we should believe her.
In a conversational writing style that is straightforward about everything from the ease of making perfect scrambled eggs to the labor of love that is the prune danish, Carrie Levin leads us through the wonders of breakfast in this charming book. She is so thorough in her tips and techniques throughout that I am well on my way to trying my hand at homemade chocolate doughnuts.
Possibly the best section of the book is the brunch menus. Although there could be better instructions on how to make the best use of time while preparing all the dishes, there are wonderful ideas for everything from New Year's Day to autumn in the park. With family coming for the holidays, one of these may be just the perfect thing for a December morning.
Just an aside, in a good-natured poke at New Yorkers, tricolor crispy nachos with salsa and eggs is known as chilaquiles in parts of the world where Mexican food is really good. Even so, I know where I'm having brunch the next time I'm in town.
MANGIA: Soups, Salads, Sandwiches, Entrées, Baked Goods from the Renowned New York City Specialty Shop
Ricardo Diaz & Nancy Jessup
HarperCollins
ISBN: 006019989X
When Mangia opened in 1982, it was imagined as a place that would be different from the usual delis, restaurants, and food carts that were the typical eating spots for New Yorkers at lunchtime. The goal was to have freshly prepared food that could be served at room temperature, buffet style. To that end, they have succeeded magnificently.
This well-designed cookbook puts together for the home cook some of Mangia's most popular items. From the bakery items to the "soup table," the "sandwich table," the "salad table," the "entrée table," and the "accents table," there are great selections for any type of food one desires.
With its advance preparation instructions and variations on recipes, MANGIA is a fantastic resource. Whether you are planning a party for just a few friends or a large family gathering, let MANGIA be your inspiration.
RIVER RUN COOKBOOK: Southern Comfort from Vermont
Jimmy and Maya Kennedy & Marialisa Calta
HarperCollins
ISBN: 0060195258
River Run occupies a building in Plainfield, Vermont that has served as post office, speakeasy, and barbershop since it was built in 1900. The restaurant has a welcoming, unassuming atmosphere and at any time of day you can find a great mix of people filling its chairs, dining on biscuits and gravy or catfish and hushpuppies. For while Maya Kennedy may be a local, it is her husband and chef Jimmy Kennedy who brings his Southern roots to the kitchen.
The main emphasis at River Run is the use of simple, everyday ingredients. Everything in this book has been tested for the home cook. Nevertheless, all recipes are meant to be used as guidelines --- since the real fun in cooking is following your instincts and using your imagination.
From the coffee mugs to the oatmeal to the bread that is delivered fresh each day, River Run celebrates local artisans. Also celebrated are the regular patrons whose photographs grace the pages of this book. With a foreword by David Mamet and an afterword by Howard Norman, it is obvious that River Run holds a special place in the hearts of many. I've never been to Vermont, but now I have a good reason to go. In the meantime, let's see if Jimmy Kennedy's fried chicken is as good as mine.
SECOND HELPINGS FROM UNION SQUARE CAFE: 160 New Recipes from New York's Favorite Restaurant
Danny Meyer & Michael Romano
HarperCollins
ISBN: 0060196475
Extraordinary food in a warm atmosphere with genuine hospitality. These are the qualities that have earned Union Square Café an unprecedented five consecutive years at the top spot of the Zagat survey for Manhattan along with many other honors.
SECOND HELPINGS FROM UNION SQUARE CAFÉ invites home cooks to expand their repertoire while guiding inexperienced cooks toward greater knowledge. From appetizers to desserts, the conversational tone and easy to follow instructions lead readers through the varying degrees of ease of each different recipe, and each comes with variations, serving suggestions, and ever-helpful wine tips.
I am ready to make just about everything in this book. One of the best meals I ever had was in a small town in Spain, where I dined on fish baked in salt. Remembering the subtle and tender flavor of that fish has me eager to cook Union Square Café's salt baked chicken. However, I think I'll leave the trippa alla trasteverina to someone else to try.
Acclaimed photographer Duane Michaels contributes his unique style of photo essays with text to these pages. Not all of them work, but most are great fun and add another dimension to the book. In any event, I know where I'm going on my next trip to New York City.
Some final thoughts…
If a little west coast cooking is what draws you to the kitchen, pick up a copy of any of the excellent Chez Panisse cookbooks by Alice Waters
--- CHEZ PANISSE MENU COOKBOOK, CHEZ PANISSE CAFÉ COOKBOOK, CHEZ PANISSE PASTA PIZZA & CALZONE, FANNY AT CHEZ PANISSE, and CHEZ PANISSE VEGETABLES. Two other books that are necessary additions to anyone's collection are THE GREENS COOKBOOK: Extraordinary Vegetarian Cuisine from the Celebrated Restaurant by Deborah Madison with Edward Espé Brown and its follow up, FIELDS OF GREENS: New Vegetarian Recipes from the Celebrated Greens Restaurant by Annie Somerville.
--- Reviewed by Anita Bunn
(c) Copyright 2001, Bookreporter.com. All rights reserved.
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